The (Valid) Hype on Vitamin C

Vitamin C in Skincare: It’s in Everything - Which One Is Right For Me?

We often discuss the importance of sunscreen and UV protection when talking about the prevention of skin cancer and photoaging. Prevention is certainly at the heart of everything we do - especially when it comes to skin health - but what about the photoaging and pigmentation changes we already have?

Vitamin C has become one of the most popular ingredients in cosmetic products worldwide. Commonly recommended by dermatologists, it’s popularity has massively grown over the past 5 years. In 2020 it was the most searched cosmetic ingredient on the internet. With so many options on the market - with highly variable price points - how does one begin to choose the best option for oneself?

Vitamin C

Let’s start by breaking down the science. Photoaging refers to the structural, functional, and aesthetic changes to the skin due to UV radiation (either prolonged or repeated). In terms of appearance, this shows up as wrinkles, dryness, rougher textural, and irregular pigmentation.

Ascorbic acid, commonly known as vitamin C, is naturally present in normal skin, where it has roles involving collagen synthesis and protecting against UV damage through it’s antioxidant effects. As we age, studies have shown that vitamin C levels in the skin are lower. In theory, Vitamin C could be seen as perfect anti-aging serum. To some degree, the research agrees - there’s evidence showing that topical vitamin C helps improve skin appearance by restoring elasticity, reducing wrinkling and improving hyperpigmentation. 

RETINOIDS VS. VITAMIN C?

You may be wondering about another mainstay in the cosmetics world - retinoids. Though retinoids are another very well studied mainstay in skincare for anti-aging, they aren’t necessarily for everyone and can come with some side effects. Redness, photosensitivity and peeling are often associated with their use, especially at the beginning. They are also not safe to use in pregnancy. Vitamin C on the other hand, may be a great alternative for long-term use, with less side effects - and can be used while pregnant or trying to conceive. This is especially helpful in pregnancy, as hormonal changes during this time can accentuate or aggravate melasma - the darkening of skin in patches, mostly on the face (often worsened with sun). 

Both retinoids and vitamin C have shown good efficacy for skin appearance and the decision to use either (or both!) is individual to you, your skin sensitivity, and your phase of life. 

Choosing a vitamin C

With vitamin C showing up in products in every drug store, what is it we should be looking for?

There are typically 3 forms of vitamin C that have been studies - the most common - and most researched - is L-ascorbic acid. It is also the most biologically available. Because vitamin C is hydrophilic - loves water! - and our outer layer of skin is hydrophobic - repels water! - companies have to add other compounds to change the acidity and increase the absorbability of the serum. For example, you will often see vitamin C with ferulic acid. Other forms you will see are ascorbyl-6-palmitate and magnesium ascorbic phosphate. These are both esterified forms of vitamin C that are stable at a more neutral pH. Optimal concentration to look for is about 10-20% - above this you are likely not getting more benefit but will increase risk of irritation. 

You have likely heard of the almost cult-like following for the Neutraceuticals CE ferulic. It is well loved for it’s efficacy and wearability but comes in at a price point about $200 - yikes! We have long been searching for alternatives to this product because, admittedly, it’s pretty great.

We find Mimar Skin’s Ultra Vit C concentrate to be a great option - with a less jaw dropping price tag. It has a great and well absorbed form of vitamin C (15% concentration) and our practitioners (including our aesthetics educator, Sonia) here have loved the consistency.

There are certainly others out there but when we consider how it feels throughout the day, how it holds up under make up and other products, how it smells.. Mimar wins for us. 

How to use

We recommend applying it in the morning, on clean, slightly damp skin. Applying it a couple of hours before going in the sun may afford you the added benefit of protection from environmental skin irritants (pollution and cigarette smoke) and even some UV protection. That said, although vitamin C may help protect our skin, it’s still important to wear broad spectrum SPF and use physical barriers like a hat!

Still have questions about skin health and products? Both our Aesthetics Educator and our Naturopathic Doctors would be happy to chat through optimizing your skin’s natural glow with you.